Regal Threads and Deep Burgundies and Questions of Italian Heritage at Milan Fashion Week
With kitschy coquette bows retiring in favour of more regal styles, and fiery reds dimming to deeper burgundies, Milan Fashion Week indicated some shifts in aesthetic trends. The week was also marked by designer debuts, some outsider brands setting up home, and a salient revival of Italian craftsmanship.
Here is what GLITCH was drawn to on the Milan fashion map.
The pops of red coined by Sofia Richie have melted into fuller and more mature tones of burgundy amongst the Milan crowd.
The demure coquette style was usurped by the crowning of a more royal aesthetic, and one which sung to the stately costumes popularised in period dramas.
Over the last few years, Cowboy boots have become the creme-de-la-creme of heel alternatives. But now there is an even more Westernized trend in emergence, one with hats, leathers, cow prints, denim, holster belts and tassels.
As well as these more simple shifts in aesthetic trend, GLITCH noticed a more thought provoking nod towards Italian heritage, that perhaps suggested changing attitudes towards continued innovation. In somewhat of a milanese renaissance, the collections of acclaimed designers seemed to hark back to the history of Italian leathers, handiwork, refinement, and quality. Popular culture would suggest we are entering an era where technique and expertise is more valued and understood, and the Italian creators seemed to infuse this into their showcases. Milan certainly played host to a unique interplay of the quintessential and the radical this year. Will this tension create disparate Italian styles, or will we see a fused Italian aesthetic established?
As fresh faces assumed their roles in creative directorship, the week also buzzed with a certain newness. All eyes were on Adrian Appiolaza’s debut for Moschino, Matteo Tamburini with TODs, and Walter Chiapponi’s with Blumarine. Here are some of the signature styles from these newly crowned CDs that GLITCH felt characterized the new personality they are injecting in these brands:
Diesel staged another radical moment this season, with a second “open to the public” format which allowed 1,000 guests to register for tickets. By opening their doors to those both in Milan, and those further afar who were able to join virtually, Diesel is sparking lots of ideas about how fashion might be presented in the future.
Off the runway, the Italian capital also had a colourful schedule of notable events. German fine art and fashion photographer Juergen Teller had a book signing at Triennale Milano as part of his temporary exhibition there. Featuring over 1000 works, Juergen is known for his candid celebrity portraits and quirky, distinctive editorials.
To wrap up Milan fashion week, there was an epic schedule of 5 back to back digital shows dedicated to more emerging brands on the final day, which included Maison Nencioni, Münn, Phan Dang Hoang and Laura Biagotti.
Written by Hebe Street from GLITCH Magazine
Photography by Camilla Megani and Manila exclusive for GLITCH Magazine
