New York City is a place that is kinetic and alive, where trends appear in real time both on the streets and in the news. The East Coast, in particular, hosts a diverse range of styles, spanning from timeless Classic Americana to the ever-evolving world of street style. At GLITCH, we’ve been closely monitoring the sizzling trends and industry news emerging from the NYFW fashion week scene, so you don’t need to. Tune into GLITCH for an alternative analysis of the hottest moments in London, Paris, and Milan Fashion Weeks.
Peter Do’s Helmut Lang Debut
The highly anticipated return of Helmut Lang, under its new creative director, Peter Do, was a moment that lived up to all expectations. Do graduated from the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and worked below Phoebe Philo at Celine and under Lam at Derek Lam, before venturing into his own fashion label. The announcement of Do’s appointment sparked immense excitement among fashion lovers, as it marked the long-awaited return revival of Helmut Lang since its founder Helmut Lang, stepped away in 2005. Do’s Spring/Summer 2024 collection was presented on The Lower East Side and was an ode to New York City’s vibrant metropolis. The show was titled “Born to Go,” and was introduced by Ocean Voung, a Vietnamese-American poet and writer. Voung’s message explored queer identities and his—and Do’s— Vietnamese heritage. The collection featured tailored all-black looks, with pops of color elevated staples such as jeans, trousers, and blazers. It was refined, minimal, sleek, and practical. Do understands the New York target audience, remarking: “The pants shouldn’t be too long, right? Since you’re walking around. The boots have to be stomping boots. Things have to be comfortable, things have to be versatile, adjustable, and adaptable.”
Ralph Lauren Returns To The Runway
Now what is more Classic Americana than Ralph Lauren? From clothing, to fine dining at Ralph’s Polo Bar, and Ralph’s Coffee Shops, the brand has been at the heart of New York City for decades paving the way for luxury clothing, lifestyle, and fine dining. After a hiatus since their last runway in 2019, the brand made a triumphant return to the fashion stage. Jennifer Lopez, Gabrielle Union, and Amanda Seyfried sat front row, at the show which took place in Brooklyn’s Navy Yards, away from the fast-paced nature of Manhattan. Adorned with exquisite white chairs, and chandeliers, the show created an ambiance reminiscent of The Great Gatsby era. The collection, true to its Ralph Lauren roots, showcases a timeless array of East Coast staples: button-down shirts, printed blazers, distinguished pinstripe suits, and meticulously embroidered denim. Throughout his extensive career, Ralph has drawn from key themes of bohemian, cowgirl, and the glam western style, which were once again evident in his collection. Ralph states “My spring 2024 women’s collection is about a new kind of romance—cool and sophisticated.”
GLITCH’S Talent To Watch
Introducing Grace Ling
Grace Ling’s NEVERLAND SS24 show unfolded in the heart of New York City’s industrial arts district, within an immersive 30-foot gallery adorned with towering chrome walls. This setting served as the canvas for an exhibition that marked a significant evolution in Ling’s exploration of the intricate interplay between human anatomy and inanimate objects. Citing Modernists and Surrealists, such as Brancusi and Les Lalanne, as inspiration, Ling’s collection merges objectives with biomorphic sensibilities with metal sculptures. Ling’s notes state how “As we find ourselves having to be calm amongst the chaos, NEVERLAND is a light-hearted allegory to the absurdism of human condition. It is a tribute to our inner child, sometimes naive and deviant, but always authentic as we pave our way in life. As Peter Pan explains, there are no “lost girls” because girls are much too clever to fall out of their prams and be lost in this manner.”
Sami Miro Vintage’s First Fashion Week
Sami Miro Vintage’s latest collection, titled “Zero Waste,” placed her sustainability mission at the forefront of her runway showcase. Renowned for her commitment to a transparent and traceable supply chain, Miro took her dedication to the next level by personally appearing on stage to deconstruct a pair of jeans. This symbolic act underscored her upcycling techniques and unwavering commitment to reimagining clothing through the lens of sustainability. The collection itself was a captivating fusion of sporty elegance, seamlessly blending two-piece sets, with a predominant denim theme.
Sarah Staudinger creative director of Staud, produced a vision of summer and lightness in her SS24. Against the timeless backdrop of New York’s 5th Avenue, specifically The Plaza Hotel, Staudinger unfurled a captivating dreamscape. Her collection, a harmonious blend of dresses, skirts, blazers, and tanks, exuded an aura of refinement and sophistication, draped in soothing pastel shades of purple, blue, and white. Even as autumn looms on the horizon, Staud’s designs remain a testament to the effortlessly chic persona of the quintessential cool LA girl.
Zoe Latta said a few days before her show “This season, we’re thinking about our identity as Americans who predominately sell jeans and T-Shirts… what are pieces that we can add into the idea of sportswear in 2023?.” Zoe Latta and Mike Eckause have successfully created a sleek and sporty collection using denim, leather, and thrills to reimagine American staples through an edgy lens. The Eckhaus Latta collection incorporates technology collaboration with Unspun, a California-based fashion technology company, that develops 3-D woven garments. Together they created four pairs of trousers and two sleeves with this technology. This allows brands to set up micro factories for small batch orders, which reduces emissions and helps the environment. Eckhaus Latta’s brand ethos is that clothing is made in a better way, but no less expressive lies at the heart of their brand.
Known for her odds and eclectic runways, Hillary Taymour’s Collina Strada SS24 was as entertaining, bizarre, and profound as ever. Jazzelle Zanaughtti — known more from her IG handle @uglywordwide— opened the show as she skipped and danced on the runway holding a ribbon, with Elizabethan-inspired music playing in the background. As the other models walked out “Why are we here, earth’s on fire” blasted in the background, as a political statement about the climate crisis. Strand is able to capture the absurdity of existence in addition to the impending climate crisis in a unique manner. The whimsical clothing and mythical-looking style of Collina Strada produce conflict with the harsh social message expressed. Taymour uses binary forces to present the opposing forces describing how “As we grin and bear the excruciating present, in which the world burns and reproductive, trans, and general human rights are under threat, we summon the strength of radical softness to defend ourselves… We delve deep within to reconnect to the universal feminine energy, reminding ourselves that there is daring in delicacy, power in the pretty, and grit in the girly. Femme is fab. We call her Mother Earth for a reason.”
Introducing “Spectacle” – A Visionary Luxury Eyewear Book
Renowned Fashion Photographers Guy Aroch and Anna Palma, and prominent designer, Rockwell Harwood launched their new book during NYFW. “Spectacle” is a fabulous book, which examines the relationship between eyewear, design, fashion, art, culture, and photography. Guy remarks, “Our idea is to unite creatives to put their own twist on these everyday objects that hold a deeper meaning to us all. We thought it is best as something tactile and tangible in this digital landscape.” Guy adds “It’s not purely about the glasses – it is about seeing and being seen. It’s about the people behind the glasses. About their vision. Which is always open to interpretation and potentially full of depth and meaning. We wanted the book to be visually led, and fun.” Eyewear gives us vision and is how the world perceives us making it an integral part of our lives. “Spectacle” celebrates eyewear in a fun and delightful manner, reminding us how important eyewear is in relation to our identity.
From Peter Do’s Lower East Side looks to Ralph Lauren’s Classic Americana, New York remains an epicenter where timeless classics and new trends collide. GLITCH is always keeping an eye out for new talent and we believe that Grace Ling and Sami Miro will be the next big designers in the industry. As NYFW comes to an end, we are reminded of the enduring spirit and creativity of the city. We are eager to see what London, Paris, and Milan will bring, and will keep you updated with GLITCH’s unique perspective on the ever-changing fashion industry.
Written by Amber Weir from GLITCH Magazine