Being the only BA Fashion Design course to show on the official London Fashion Week calendar, there is a certain buzz that surrounds the University of Westminster showcase each year. Chiltern Hall welcomed a scope of industry insiders, reporters, and opinion makers to review the final collections of this year’s cohort, as their new-gen menswear and womenswear collections helped to open the June fashion weekend. As one of the fashion capital’s most prestigious schools, their productions are always a hub of emerging ideas, and littered with indicators as to what the newest trends and visions might be. The GLITCH team were lucky enough to be in attendance and spectate the live show, and have sought to draw attention to some of the budding trend’s they identified in this year’s showcase of the youngest talents now storming into the fashion pool.
Modern Vision on Masculinity
In the thick of a society grappling with unfixed concepts of gender and identity, it is unsurprising that fashion is beginning to echo new viewpoints. The traditional masculine dress was refreshed, with florid, effeminate, and even futuristic influences in this year’s Westminster showcase. Rising waistlines and more fitted cuts definitely steered this year’s masculine direction. Cropped suiting, with hip height blazers, was the most dominant new feature throughout and is certainly a new style we predict will transfix high street style in the seasons to come. Skirts also had their moment, as this quirky gender-blended trend is still trying to crack through into the mainstream and disrupt the laws of gendered fashion. Prints, floral, and textures also became more of a man’s moment, and it certainly seemed that menswear was unbound from its historical limitations, and broadening in its creative realm.
Sartorial Style and 18th Century Influences
Sartorial style is a term used in menswear to describe the aesthetic of classic and timeless garments and is usually affiliated with traditional suiting. The Westminster showcase definitely nodded towards a liking for sharp and trim aesthetics as reworked suiting took centre stage. Evoking confident masculinity, rich fabrics were emblazoned with broaches, coins, and baroque buttoning, suggestive of a romanticised culture. Modernized with eclectic colours and non-traditional fits, the aristocratic vintage aesthetic was twisted for the twenty-first century.
Equestrian Accessories and Conceptual Cravats
GLITCH identified two emerging accessories trends, that warrant a close watch in the upcoming season. Equestrian style boots were a popular choice to accompany a large proportion of the looks on display, with rich leathers and chunky soles educing a rugged Western aesthetic. Cravats were also a keen feature throughout, and neckwear in general was re-spun and re-crafted into a more central focus point. Long chains and pendants complimented open lapels, and silk scarfs seamlessly blended into shirts and jackets. The effect was a certain masculine flamboyance, and perhaps we will see ties and cravats step back into a trend in the next season.Â
Persian Patterns and Graphic Prints
Tapestry detailing and Persian patterns were also notable trends that weaved together the breadth of creation. With Middle Eastern influences in decoration and design, there was a certain ornateness that enmeshed the whole display. Conversely, contemporary collaged prints and graphic photos also wrapped some crafted pieces. What’s certain is that the collision of art and image making, and its adherence to clothing, is becoming more imaginative amongst emerging creatives. Â
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Written by Hebe Street from GLITCH Magazine
