As we look back at London Fashion Week, it seems the runway became a stage for more than just couture; it became a platform for political dialogue and reflection. Ukrainian brands TAMAR KEBURIA, J’AMEMME, and GASANOVA, along with British-Yemeni designer Kazna Asker, spearheaded this movement, sparking conversations about politics through fashion.
TAMAR KEBURIA: “Reflections” – A Tribute to Ukrainian Resilience
TAMAR KEBURIA’s AW24 collection, “Reflections,” which showcased during London Fashion Week, paid homage to the strength and resilience of contemporary Ukrainian women. Designer Tamriko Keburia, a firsthand witness to war displacement, presented a deeply personal collection blending fashion with the complex theme of refugee identity. Mirrored suitcases symbolically invited viewers to reflect on their own lives in the context of a refugee’s journey, creating a powerful narrative of fortitude and empathy.
J’AMEMME: Le solstice d’hiver – Nature’s Influence on Fashion
J’AMEMME’s FW24-25 collection, Le solstice d’hiver, drew inspiration from Ukrainian illustrator Okhrim Sudomora’s portrayal of micelles. Designer Julie Yarmoliuk seamlessly integrated the worlds of art and nature, creating a collection marked by daring nude sequins and ethereal pleats. The brand’s recognizable architectural forms, emphasizing tenderness and sensuality, were complemented by a contrasting shade palette, setting the tone for the upcoming cold season.
GASANOVA: WINTER SPICE – A Family Tradition Celebration in Fashion
GASANOVA’s FW24-25 collection, WINTER SPICE, unfolded as a hymn to the rich world of spices, celebrating family traditions and the warmth they bring. The color palette, featuring deep burgundy, earthy brown, serene green, elegant blue, and luxurious gold, evoked sophistication. Founder and Creative Director Elvira Gasanova emphasized the collection’s encouragement to dress stylishly, creating a special coziness to cope with unpredictability, and bring warmth to our lives.
Yemenian Designer Kazna Asker: Questioning What We Fight For
In the storied history of Central Saint Martins’ MA fashion show, a hijab had never featured on the runway until Kazna Asker, a British-Yemeni designer, showcased her final collection during London Fashion Week in February 2022.
Kazna Asker challenges norms with her collection titled “What Are We Fighting For?”. Her politically charged work continues to question societal norms, serving as a tribute to her home country Yemen, and a call for support to people in Palestine.
Peruvian designer Genaro Rivas: Strength and Pursuit of Freedom
Genaro Rivas, the acclaimed Peruvian designer, recently revealed his much-anticipated AW24 collection, “Beautiful James,” at London Fashion Week. This collection represents a culmination of Rivas’s creative journey and collaborative efforts, blending elements of renewal, strength, and the quest for freedom. Drawing inspiration from the Placebo song of the same name, “Beautiful James” marks a pivotal moment in Rivas’s career, merging his South American heritage with East London influences. Crafted in East London using premium Peruvian materials like alpaca, the collection seamlessly combines contemporary silhouettes with classical shapes, symbolizing the richness of individualism and the path to self-realization.
These brands are just a few that used the runway as a platform for political discourse, and have helped to shape the narrative of fashion diplomacy in London last month. Perhaps as we move deeper into 2024, the language of fashion will continue to be both decisive and questioning, and align itself more closely to worldly dialogue.
Written by Nerija Kanapkaite, a GLITCH Magazine Contributor
