Diors pre-fall 2023 showcase in Mumbai was a colourful and magical tribute to Maria Grazia Chiuris long-standing allegiance with both India and Karishma Swali, director of the Chanakya Atelier. Chanakya Atelier is both a site of study and emancipation for many women; providing mentorship in exquisite garment creation, the atelier acts as a portal through which many women can enhance their lives and lay claim to boundless potential, empowered by skill and opportunity. The atelier seeks to celebrate a quintessential poise and finesse of female craftsmanship, and this is the same aesthetic that Dior womenswear seeks to celebrate and embody. The abundant show was thought to be a manifestation of Chiuris gratitude to the myriad of artistic inspiration that has been blossoming out of South East Asia over the centuries.
Staged open-air, at Mumbais Gateway of India monument, the models walked to the backdrop of impressive 16th century Gujarati architecture. A patchwork fabric arch emblazoned with gemstones provided the perfect opulent framing for the performance to enfold beneath. Mandala-esque art work tried to segment the vast space into something reminiscent of a runway. However, the location was all too grand for a traditional fashion show, and the stage-like set-up was much more fitting, as guests were bedazzled by an all-encompassing expression of culture, from clothing to live drummers.
Sari-inspired silhouettes punctuated the runway, shoulder to shoulder with more classic suiting, all coming together in an eclectic celebration of design. Gold detailing threaded through the show, which also anchored on lime greens, candy pinks, and peacock blues. Floral patterns and melted tie-dye prints were also repeated features, and Chiuris collection sung on pitch between the expected and unexpected. The collection was intended to be a visual mapping of Indian art, fused with the simplistic beauty iconic of the long-standing Dior fashion house. The landmark runway show spotlighted the central role of India in European high fashion, and the countrys prowess in global artistic cultivation. Exhibiting intricate embroidery and precise detailing, the collection applauded the intricate fashion elements we see worldwide, that have their roots in Asian history and handiwork.
Ignited with a celebrity energy, the show welcomed the likes of Cara Delevigne, Simone Ashley, Freida Pinto, Yara Shahidi. Bollywood stars were also in attendance, from Sonam Ahuja Kapoor to Anushka Sharma. A truly star-studded audience, for a truly star-studded display, all beneath the temperate and enchanting Indian night sky.
It is so important to celebrate the culture, the creativity that is in this country and the way we can try to move in the future by Chiuri
by Hebe Street from GLITCH Magazine